Bologna the Fat
Bologna the Red, they call it, the Learned, and of course, Bologna the Fat.
Unlike other regions famous for their cuisine that we have been to before, like say, San Sebastian in Spain, we found Bologna somewhat underwhelming. Perhaps our expectations were too high, but little of it significantly surpassed the pasta you get at a good restaurant anywhere in the world. The ragu sauce (elsewhere called Bolognese sauce) was generally the same as elsewhere, lasagna was not outstanding, various ravioli were competent, but nothing to write home about (and this was at restaurants widely agreed to offer their best expressions). Furthermore, average-priced restaurants of local cuisine (we’re not talking Michelin star here) had remarkably little variety of offerings. Sure, the range of cuts of pasta was mind boggling, but the choice of preparations far more limited.
That said, in our two weeks we did come across some excellent experiences —
Culinary highlights
If you happen to be in the Saragozza neighborhood, this is a lovely little restaurant with delicious pasta dishes, especially the spaghetti with egg yolk and cheese, but also this one with pistachios
Gelato!
Through some sort of brain fart, we only started chasing the best gelato in Bologna the last couple of days. Most places in the center are average, but if you seek out the best shops (trust Google map reviews here) you will be richly rewarded, as they genuinely have some of the best ice cream/sorbet we have ever had! The Sicilian granitas is an epiphany. We managed to try only two of the top places — and then come back to try more flavors; said Masha after ice cream for breakfast, “We can’t live like this; it’s too much. We are gonna die!”
Sablé is the tops. Their elderflower plum sorbet is sublime; the “chocolate”, gelato pictured below, actually tasted like real cacao beans
Cremeria Cavour is also fantastic. They have even more flavors and specialize in creamy gelatos. Their double rich hazelnut was like eating thick mascarpone, in a good way (but just only). And their grapefruit granitas was exceptional — as if each tiny kernel was separated out and had their flavor dialed to 11
L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele
We had a few pizzas in Bologna, but this, a pizza chain from Napoli , was exceptional. The Vesuvius pizza (with red & yellow tomatoes) is one of the best I’ve ever had
La Bottega in Dozza
Given that Dozza is a tiny village, we didn’t expect to find the best pasta in Bologna area here. But that’s what happened! The basil panna cotta was superb as well
Unexpectedly, we discovered this serious Afghan establishment just a few blocks from us! It was an excellent break from all the pasta; the pomegranate-walnut dip was sublime. But do bring the mosquito spray
Of course we also tried many other restaurants, many tourist favorites — pasta mongers, salumerias, and so on. But for the most part, they weren’t memorable.
Restaurant selection tips
During our stay, several locals advised us on how to distinguish good restaurants from tourist traps. There’s of course the obvious red flags — pictures on menus , active solicitation on the street. But there are some Italy- and even Bologna-specific:
“Lasagna” bad, “lasagne” good
Gelato shops with metal, covered containers good; open rectangular containers, especially whipped up piles with neon colored toppings bad
There’s many other amazing places — if you find some, let us know!
