Touring Tyrol, Austria
To escape (yet another) imminent heat wave, we changed our plans at the last moment and, instead of north Italy, took a train to Innsbruck, Austria, a true Alpine city in the Tyrol region.
Innsbruck has beautiful palaces and a very cute and neat historical center. But more than anything else, the city is defined by the stunning peaks surrounding it on most sides. Since we were only staying a few days, we sprung for a nice AC Marriott hotel in the center, with excellent views of said mountains and a perfect tourist location
Over our couple of days there, starting on the main drag of the tourist area (Maria Theriesen Strasse, leading into the “Town Square” and the historical center) we explored the incredibly attractive architecture and small but beautiful churches (and, of course Swarowski Kristalwellen - which we loved!)
The botanical gardens (free) and playground were also really beautiful
And not to be outdone by nature - Innsbruck has two Hapsburg era palaces. First, the Hofburg Hapsburg palace right in the middle of the city, reminiscent of St. Petersburg’s Winter Palace — too easy we said!
Instead, we went to the farther out Schloss Ambras palace, which was built up by Archduke Ferdinand II, and now houses impressive collections and some unique artifacts
Yes, you saw that correctly — minute carving artwork made of ivory, wood and coral!
We also caught a performance of 18th century music on rare 18th century instruments in the beautiful Spanish hall (below).
If you wish to go, it’s a straight shot on one of several buses from the center - in google we trust!
Even with all the beautiful buildings, the ultimate beauty of Innsbruck comes back to the mountains.
Of course, the best way to see Innsbruck is from the peaks. But, getting to the 2300 meter Hafelekar Peak above Innsbruck is no easy matter. First, you take the Hungerburg Funicular to Hermann Buhl Square (you can walk there, as it’s only a few hundred meters up and still part of the city). Here you will also find a nature park with over 3000 species. The funicular is only a few euros and already affords a good view of the city. Be aware that the city station (Congress) is underground and thus easy to miss even when standing next to it (it’s at the edge of the park where google takes you, with a glass roof over the entrance).
From Hermann Buhl Square, take the Nordkette cable car to Seegrube — this is the main stretch and takes you to almost 2000 meters. The third cable car, from Seegrube to Hafelekar Peak, takes you to the peak for a panoramic views of the Alps and the entire valley.
See if you can spot the two cable car stations
View of Innsbruck from the top (©Nordkette)
But even if you stay in the valley like us, whether clear or cloudy, the mountains are ever-present
What better backdrop for a game of chess?
On the last day there was a brief thunderstorm, but the clouds cleared quickly
and we made a good rainy day out of it with a trip to a children’s audio science museum — Audioversum
Worldschooling at its best - we played there for hours, learning about how the ears work, how balance works, how sound travels and lots more… pretty good for a gloomy afternoon.
Finally, we explored local mountain culture right in Innsbruck through a Tyrolean folk music show. While the official description sounded gaudy and kitschy, I can never resist Masha’s contagious smile once she has gotten excited about something and talks about it while bouncing up and down on her toes. So, we went… and as cheesy as it was, it brought huge smiles to all of our faces. Check out our separate post on this show with yodeling, musical saws, bells, dynamite, and more!
Now, lets talk about the food! Innsbruck has (what I imagine to be) typical Austrian cuisine — schnitzels, sausages, sauerkraut — which is everywhere
So-so sausages, but the best (fried) sauerkraut ever. My mouth waters now just looking at it again!
There is also a traditional soup that is ubiquitous - beef broth with cheese or bacon “bread” dumplings or pancake strips cut up like little noodles. We ordered one in every Austrian restaurant… it was like a warm hug in a bowl
But on the first day, we also randomly encountered an Italian restaurant — Die Pizzerei — that immediately got Masha addicted to their salmon pasta. Pizza was great too! So, we had to come back again and again.. and I think again. Specifically she said “I could live in this bowl of pasta,” and then she did…
And lest they be forgotten… we had some stellar desserts in Innsbruck. Though not the Sacher Torte, which Masha was very much looking forward to eating in Austria. For a good Sacher Torte, we’ll need to go to Vienna, it seems!
And yet, after all the good times — and they were good — at the risk of being misunderstood, I would say leaving Innsbruck for Bologna was one of the highlights of our stay there. Certainly not because of a — yet again — chaotic train experience, but because our train made its way through the Dolomites, offering hours of truly spectacular views…
