Chiang Mai: It’s Temples all the Way Down
Thailand is replete with Buddhist temples, one more colorful than the next. But despite some prior familiarity with Buddhism and eagerness to learn more, our guides had little to say about the importance of any specific temple or historical individual. And, unfortunately, even the more touristy temples like Doi Suthep don’t have much in the way of background information or explanation. Perhaps this is due to a lack of centralized doctrine and church in Buddhism, which might have woven a grand narrative. Or perhaps it is simply because there is no such grand meaning to each place, just a particular type of luck promised there and a community coming together with money to build (and after fire, rebuild) a colorful place to gather. As a result, visiting temples on your own means simply admiring their appearance and instagram shots, ringing a bell or buying one of many different “wishes” and, if you are lucky, getting a blessing from a monk in the form of a white string bracelet.
If you visit north Thailand, you will of course be pointed towards Chiang Rai, as the site of the most famous temples (the White Temple, the Blue Temple, etc.). Unfortunately, Chiang Rai also happens to be 3 hours of twisted roads away from Chiang Mai. We chose to forego those Instagram shots and instead make do with the ones available nearby.
Chiang Mai proper
You can start getting acquainted with Buddhist temples right in Chiang Mai Old Town. They are pretty neat in daytime, but really come alive at night
Just outside the Old Town, a few blocks from the south border, you’ll find the Silver Temple
While the architecture and decoration is similar to other temples in the area, it is the only one finished (or made out of?) silver. Not for any particular reason, nor does it have any special significance; it just happens to be made out of silver… and it happens to only allow men inside…
However, the most memorable way to see the city temples is during New Year’s Eve (“countdown”) against the backdrop of an armada of burning lanterns scattered across the midnight sky
Beyond the city itself, there are several famous temple complexes within half an hour driving distance.
Doi Kham
Just a few miles southwest of the city border, and way up the hill (you can take the monster staircase or just drive), you’ll find the Wat Doi Kham complex
In addition to all the normal trappings you might expect — multiple chapels, large Buddha statues — this complex also sports an enormous patio overlooking Chiang Mai with a bewildering array of Instagram backdrops, including giant durian and a white panda?!
Why a religious establishment might feel the need to entice influencers with such gaudy displays, we never learned. But we did enjoy their other displays, including an array of gongs and gold leaf to go dispensers
Doi Sothep
Also towering over Chiang Mai from the neighboring hills is the most famous temple complex in the area — Doi Sothep. Even more impressive than the above, it has a stunning gold dome (under repair)
Whereas Doi Kham sported an array of gongs, Doi Sothep offers a row of bells
When we visited, there were also monks who would give blessings with bracelets for a small donation
Of course, while we simply took taxis or red trucks to these temples, you can make the trek to all these temples from the city on foot, as many locals do.
Wat Ban Den
Roughly a 40km drive from Chiang Mai, Wikipedia’s description of this temple complex as “sprawling” is barely adequate. While the original temple dates from the end of 19th century, it underwent a major renovation and expansion in late 80’s and so appears quite new.
There’s temples, stupas, and other elements from Chinese, Thai and Indian Buddhism. Many buildings have statue of different animals and mythological creatures. Because of the variety of creatures and their colorful finish, it has been described as Buddhism meets Dr. Seuss.
Big Naga serpents protect many of the temples on every corner of the stairs
This is the one temple complex we visited with a guide. Even though this also had no significant background, we learned about a lot of the creatures and their means. We also learned about properly visiting the temples, such as walking in a clockwise pattern, taking off our shoes (and staying in the shade so as not to burn our feet), never turning your back to the Buddha, not being above monks (look down), and not pointing our feet at anyone as it is a sign of disrespect. These practices felt similar to those we learned in Japan.
The Thai form of Buddhism, similar to the Indian branch, is quite different from the Japanese form of Buddhism which is more influenced by China. Each, however, retains a form of respect for the Buddha and his helpers, and focuses very much on tradition and established rules of worship. It is rituals, our guide told us, rather than thoughts and that unite Buddhist worshippers, making the tradition open to everyone.
I like that approach. Welcome one, welcome all, take your pictures, have your fun, fill your eyes with the colorful sights, and go get some lunch! You are hungry, and the food awaits.