Three Days in the Venice Archipelago
Venice is a city like no other; its narrow streets offer a gateway into another world. Read on for a guide to spending three rich and memorable days there.
There are three surprisingly different terrains in Venice and it’s worth sampling all three:
The notoriously crowded and touristy spots: St Marco’s Square, Ponte Rialto, the main entry bridge, and the main boulevards between these. Here you’ll encounter the expected overpowering Disney-level crowds.
Side streets from the main channels — still tourist-oriented, mainly filled with shops and cafes, but not obnoxious. In fact, surprisingly rewarding. If you are looking to actually buy something in Venice, and there’s good quality clothes and other products to be found, buy them here, not on the main thoroughfares.
The purely residential. Although many locals have moved across the straight to Marghera or Mestre, plenty still live on the island. Step a block from zone 1 and you’ll be in 2. Walk two or three blocks more and you’ll almost certainly end up here, with nary a person on the streets. Though worth a look, I was surprised how quickly we headed back out to (2). Unfortunately, there seems to be almost no establishments left for the local population. The (at least semi-)tourist areas have swallowed virtually all stores, cafes, and restaurants.
A bit of zone 1 is unavoidable and has the most beautiful buildings; wander a bit in zone 3 to see what’s left of the real Venice; but spend most of your time in zone 2.
Day 1
Start the day with a short Venice guided walking tour for kids and learn some of its history - for example, what’s up with these stone heads and why is there a lion everywhere? If you play your cards right, your kid can even paint a mask afterward while you have a glass of wine nearby
Have lunch at Trattoria da Mamo (a favorite of gondola pilots) - a must! I still dream of that pasta alla chitara (with buffalo) and the eggplant appetizer (pictured). It’s best to have a reservation and, unlike most places in Venice, you can actually make it online
Take an hour or two to wander small but lively calles, admire narrow canals, and peruse shops and galleries in “zone 2” in Dorsaduro, like this modern art museum with Patrick Hughes reverse perspective drawings! Buy a mask from one of the shops here where the master makes it in the shop — these are visibly different from the mass produced ones filling stores in Zone 1
Take a gondola, sandolo, or batela (literally “boat”) rowing class from Row Venice. Way more fun than just being pushed around the narrow canals with everybody else. If you’re good, they’ll even take you out on the bay. Kids can get in on the action too!
Have dinner at a pre-booked restaurant. Unfortunately, since most restaurants target tourists (it’s tough to find a “locals” or “authentic” place), there are not many good ones, so at least in busy season — make reservations.
Day 2
Take a guided tour to Murano and Burano islands , famous for glass-blowing and surprisingly colorful houses, respectively. Ideally, one that gives you an hour or more on Burano in addition to time for lunch and a glass blowing demo on Murano. The public ferries are quite slow and crowded (it can suck to wait an hour in a long line for a ferry under the hot sun), but they do offer more flexibility
Have an aperitif on one of Venice’s less packed campos (piazza) like Campo Santa Margherita.
Venture into a different area then yesterday for dinner.
If you need a playbreak at any time, drop by the playground/park across from the bus station, the only one we found in the city.
Day 3
Head straight to St. Marco Square in morning to beat the crowds. Go to the dome of the Basilica for a great view; for the most luxurious collection of art in the city, check out Doge’s Palace. Make sure you reserve the tickets ahead of time for Doge’s Palace and/or Campanile if you decide to go
Go back to Trattoria da Mamo for lunch - in this case, there’s no shame in repeats.
Make sure you cross all three bridges across the main canal before leaving - Ponte Realto, Ponte dell'Accademia, and Ponte degli Scalzi. Although they are some of the most crowded spots, they afford great views of the buildings on the main canal, which are some of the most beautiful and upkept
If time allows in the morning, stop by the Leonardo da Vinci interactive museum and learn about the extent of his engineering genius (we could only make the one in Rome but the exhibitions are very similar).
Where to stay?
Primarily, the decision is between Venice itself and the mainland across the straight (Marghera or Mestre). Just in the last few years since Covid, it seems housing prices on the island itself have nearly doubled. You can stay on the mainland, a 20 minute bus ride away from Stazione de Venecia for literally half the price (just make sure to be close to a bus stop). This will also save you some funds for the airport transfer by private boat taxi (not a cheap experience). The other, smaller downside of staying on the island is that getting from the station (if you come by train or bus) to your residence across some of the roughly 400 bridges spanning Venice is a notoriously unpleasant (i.e., hilarious, for the onlookers) experience, especially if your suitcase collection is anything like ours; unless, of course, you spring for a porter or ferry (recommended).
On the other hand, staying on the island eliminates the 10 minute walk to the bus stop, 10 minute wait for the bus and 20 minute ride any time you want to go home. Depending on your stamina for exploration (and presence of a heat wave), taking a two hour mid-day break at your hotel can dramatically improve your experience, and this is of course much easier if you are just a few blocks away.
Either way, both Booking.com and Airbnb have a lot of options, just make sure to read reviews for your place to avoid unpleasant surprises.
