Bridges of 7th Arrondissement
While Alya and Masha climbed 1602 steps to the dizzying heights of the top of Eiffel tower (or may be they took elevators, I didn't catch the details), I roamed the shores of the Seine and the streets of the 7th arrondissement.
We’ve debated often with Masha about what gives European cities, especially in Western Europe, a very distinct feel from US cities. Even those like San Francisco, that have some artistic flair and a more relaxed feel, somehow have a different vibe to us. It remains somewhat of a puzzle. She believes it’s the tree-lined streets with benches, and the way architecture and greenery integrates into every-day life. But walking along this street, I realized that at least in part, it’s the uniformly baroque architecture of residential streets, such as in central Paris —
Mathieu, Sagita’s husband who happens to be an architect, explained this uniformity is a direct result of an intentional program of architectural homogenization in the mid 19th century, when Napoleon III and G.E. Haussmann implemented strict building codes. Along with many other components, they regulated building facades in downtown Paris and built blocks holistically, so that adjacent buildings align with each other horizontally.
It’s hard to imagine modern Paris, or, really any city, implementing urban planning on such a grand scale today, but they are still really adept at handling urban living —
Just a few blocks further, I encountered the Alexander III bridge and learned that Tzar Alexander III of Russia laid the first stone of the eponymous bridge, which was to be a symbol of Franco-Russian cooperation at the turn of the century. And that the gleaming golden figures on each corner of the bridge are called Fames (not Fates!). And also that St. Petersburg has a sister bridge designed by Eiffel with the first stone laid by the French president at the time!
May be that’s why the Russian embassy is a huge compound less than a block away from the Eiffel tower
I had hoped to say hi to Napoleon without paying the $16 Invalides entrance, so I tried sneaking in through the military museum —
But the French are not so easily fooled. Having visited France’s most revered mausoleum before, I made do with some external photos, and headed back to the tower to pick up the girls.
Approaching the tower through the Eiffel Tower Gardens, it struck me how casually relaxed these people were, lounging under the most famous structure in the world…
Throughout these two hours I marveled at the French weather, where you can be hot (from the sun) and cold (from the wind) at the same time. Clearly I need to level up my travel wardrobe.