Visiting the Moorish Grandeur of Alhambra
The south of Spain (“Al Andalus”)— Seville, Granada, Cordoba, Cadiz, etc. — is famous for its Moorish heritage, with iconic narrow-street old towns and its characteristic architecture. But the Arabic grandeur reaches its zenith in Granada, the former capital of the Nasrid dynasty — the last Islamic kingdom in Spain. And while Granada’s old town should be explored for its narrow streets, tea shops and surprises, the moorish heritage is most visibly on display in the kingdom’s old palace and fort, the Alhambra.
If you are already sold on Alhambra and are planning the visit now, scroll to the end for important tips
The Alhambra is not one palace or castle, but a complex of many structures built by the Nasrid dynasty over two hundred years. This massive complex consists of the Alcazaba, Generalife, Royal Alcazar (sultan rooms), Beautiful Arts Building (used by Spanish as a museum) and many supporting buildings. These are connected by long corridors of absolutely massive cypresses, trimmed hedges and groves of blossoming orange trees and roses
Nazareth palace/Sultan’s Rooms
The most in-demand part of Alhambra — the most impressive and best preserved, and where you have to stand in a significant line to get in — is the Nazareth palace. These were the living quarters of the Nasrid sultans and they are the most elaborate and beautifully ornate parts of the complex. If you’ve seen beautiful pictures from inside Alhambra… this was probably it
The rooms are empty and without extra decoration other than ceilings (compare to the paintings and carpets hanging in Northern European palaces). The beauty of the palace consists in the incredibly elaborate plaster filigree decorating all possible surfaces, plaster that was at one point beautifully painted all sorts of vibrant colors now faded…
Most of the ceilings are like fractals — no matter how much you zoom in, the same design repeats itself
A few ceilings had cool designs,and there were even literal glass ceilings, shining rainbow rays of sunshine onto the walls…
The other attraction of the palace is the cooling greenery of the courtyards, each with its own pool, helping to keep the place beautiful and cool in the summer months
After the palace, and before we continue our exploration of the Alhambra, a well deserved cooling snack is in order (it was only April but already hot!)
Alcazaba - Fortress
Next on the list was the Alcazaba (Spanish version of kasbah or fortress). This was the first part of the complex that was built on the Alhambra hill -- always start with the military part! It also used to have a market area for trading.
Not nearly as preserved (or restored) as the other parts of Alhambra, the Alcazaba offers grand views of the modern Granada if you have the energy to walk up its stairs
Generalife
On the other side of the grounds, you can visit the Generalife, the royal family’s summer quarters, their summer home (a few hundred meters) away from home. It was built so close so that the Sultans could easily access the Alcazaba in case of an invasion! It too boasts a traditional Moorish long courtyard with a pool, but with a neater fountain setup and sprawling labyrinth gardens
It also offers gorgeous views of the rest of the complex
Palace of Charles V
Finally, as you are walking around the grounds of the Alhambra, you’ll pass by this building inexplicably out of place among all the Moorish arches and domes. This, you will learn is the Palace of Charles V. Once the Spanish monarchy took over at the end of the 15th century, they decided to add their own mark. The result is this palace, built over the next hundred years in the Renaissance style
Today this building houses two museums, but even if exploring a museum after hours of walking proves a tall order, step inside for a minute to admire this spectacular colonnade-encircled courtyard. Roman influence anyone?
Tips for visiting Alhambra
With all the beauty to be found in the Alhambra, it does take some logistic planning these days to be able to go in on your schedule —
First - The Tickets. You have a choice here of (1) booking significantly (three months) in advance in order to secure your spot, (2) booking close to the dates (up to maybe 1-2 weeks) and paying a bit more for a tour and (3) somewhere in the middle - paying for a Granada Card, which includes entry to Alhambra.
We chose the third option as we were too late for website tickets. I was glad we did so as the free 10 rides on transportation that comes with the card, as well as entrance to the small little museums we enjoyed on the side, came in useful. Granada Card was a great compromise.
Note that the general entry and Granada Card don’t include formal tours, but you can get audio guide links to download on your mobile and follow along a self-guided tour with that.
Second - What To Choose. When you buy tickets, you will be able to select what they include. We ended up seeing all parts of the Alhambra -- but to do so, it will take at least 3-4 hours or more if you’d like to sit and relax, have a snack or let kids get a break/good run around the gardens. There is a lot of walking involved.
Keep in mind: the Nazareth palaces/Sultan’s rooms will require a separate timed reservation. This is important — make sure to book a time for these or you won’t get in — even with a general Alhambra ticket. These are worth it!
Pro Tip Bonus - When you line up for your time slot at the palaces, make sure you are in the individual entry line (and not accidentally in the group entry line) and come about 15 min early.
If you need to save time/have small kids and a stroller, consider skipping Alcazaba as its harder to maneuver. The Generalife is still worth the extra walk, especially since running around the gardens can be a good break for the kids.
There are some simple snacks and ice cream available near the Nazareth Palace, so get any sustenance you need there. Generalife does not have concessions. Or, bring a snack/meal with you and enjoy a picnic of sorts :)
Third - When and How. Many people told us to simply walk up to Alhambra. And you can do that — if you enjoy walking up a hill in the heat before you do the rest of your walking. It’s not a long walk, but given the heat we chose to take a lovely little public bus — included in the Granada Card or a few Euros. You can catch these little public shuttles right from the downtown center half a block from Plaza Isabel La Católica. The 30 and 32 stop there and take you right up to the entrance of the Alhambra. You can use Google Maps to help figure out the times/routes.
Also, consider if you prefer morning or evening to visit. The weather is cooler in the morning and you will get more time, so that’s a good option. On the other hand, the sunshine on the Alhambra is glorious in the afternoon. Take your pick, but consider the walking and the fact that much of it is exposed to the sun.
Fourth - Enjoy! Don’t forget to slow down and take in the view. Stop, sit, breathe it in. Imagine strolling about during the time of the Sultans in the quiet of the gardens or the bustle of the Alcazaba.